Products & Trends, Science & Innovation

Peptides: the high-tech promise that speaks the language of the skin

peptides in cosmetics

We've been hearing about "peptides" for a few years now, but what do they really do, and how can they be intelligently integrated into a dermo-cosmetic routine and an effective formula? An overview of their mode of action, benefits and products from French Pharmacy that are already best sellers thanks to the remarkable effectiveness of these high-tech molecules. 

What is a "peptide"?

Peptides are short chains of amino acids (minimum 2 amino acids) - in other words, fragments of proteins. The difference between peptides and proteins lies in size and structure. We speak ofoligopeptides when the AA chain is less than 10-20 AA, from polypeptides above 20 and protein from 50 AA. Their interest in cosmetics: they can mimic biological signals that the skin understands very well. Unlike traditional active ingredients which "correct" a defect (e.g. smoothing wrinkles with keratolytic active ingredients), a peptide acts at the source of the imbalance, targeting the cell involved in the biological process at the origin of the identified imbalance (e.g. wrinkles are no longer smoothed on the surface, but collagen production is encouraged). 

A well-designed peptide speaks to a precise receiver (integrins, TGF beta receptors...) and triggers a targeted response: collagen synthesis, calming of inflammation, better repair, smoothing effect... 

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Peptide families (and what they really do)

There are several families of peptides for "cosmetic" use. They are classified by mode of action. 

  • Signal peptides : these peptides trigger cellular pathways by binding to specific receptors, boosting activity (e.g. on fibroblasts to boost collagen production)

  • Transport peptides :  provides ions useful for the activity of certain cells, indirectly promotes the production of molecules of interest (e.g. collagen...)

  • Neuromodulating peptides: sequences that attenuate the release of certain neuromediators (e.g. Acetylcholoine at the neuromuscular level for a botox-like effect)

  • Barrier and soothing peptides: biomimetic sequences that modulate inflammation and reinforce structure.

To increase efficacy, peptides are often combined and "grafted" with anchoring patterns (e.g. RGD for integrins = Arginine + Glycine + Acide aspartique) and lipid chains.

The lipid chains added to peptides improve skin penetration, while the anchoring motifs enable the peptide to bind specifically to certain receptors that recognize them (imagine a "key-lock" couple). These more targeted peptides are more effective than peptides without anchoring motifs. 

KEYWORDS

How can you incorporate peptides into your skincare routine?

  • Morning: pro-collagen / barrier peptides under SPF. Very good tandem with niacinamide and hyaluronic acids.
  • Evening: peptides + mild retinoids (if skin has been trained) for collagen-remodeling synergy; or alternately with acids (AHAs) (or in your cleanser).
  • Sensitive / post-acute skin: use soothing biomimetic peptides in minimalist textures.

The tip: the peptides like regularity (8-12 weeks) more than concentration shocks!!!!

How to formulate peptides intelligently

  • Promoting bioavailability : sequences transplants (ex. palmitoyl-…+ motif d’ancrage) pour favoriser l’skin-peptide interaction 
  • Galenics: create "vehicle" textures to enhance active ingredient penetration, and physiological pHs to improve stability. 
  • Proof going beyond in vitro tests clinical evidence in vitro
  • Couple peptides with "corrective" active ingredients (HA, Retinol, Niacinamide, etc.) for synergistic action and short-, medium- and long-term results. 

(Re) découvrez nos articles dédiés à ces actifs stars de la French Pharmacy : le retinol and la vitamine C

French Pharmacy and peptides

Laroche Posay & Neurosensine

La célèbre marque incorpore son dipeptide Neurosensine dans un de ses best-seller : le Sérum Dermallergo de la gamme Tolériane. Le dipeptide (INCI ACETYL DIPEPTIDE-1 CETYL ESTER) est constitué d’un motif arginine et tyrosine greffé d’un motif Acetyl- (N-trminal) et Cetyl ester (C16) :

  • le groupement acetyl va protéger le peptide de dégradations enzymatiques
  • la chaine lipidique Cetyl-ester va augmenter la lipophilie et la pénétration cutané
  • le dipeptide arginine-tyrosine est la partie bioactive de la molécule et se fixerait sur des récepteurs sensoriels cutanées pour réduire l’hyperréactivité 

👩🏻‍⚕️Ce peptide n’est pas breveté par L’Oréal et est facilement disponible chez de nombreux fournisseurs. Le nom Neurosensine en revanche est protégé. 

SVR & le peptide « venin de serpent » 

On retrouve dans le best seller Pepti Biotic, un peptide très connu, qui mime l’effet de la toxine Waglerin-1 (venin de serpent). Il s’agit d’un peptide type « neuro-inhibiteur » (INCI Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate) dont l’action vise à relâcher les micro-contractions musculaires pour lisser les rides et les ridules. Un effet Botox-like en surface et réversible. 

  • un groupement Diacetate pour améliorer la stabilité et l’incorporation dans les formules 
  • Benzylamide : améliore l’affinité avec les cellules et la biodisponibilité, il ne s’agit pas d’un « récepteur spécifique » comme vue précédemment. 

👩🏻‍⚕️Ce peptide est ultra courant et proposé par des dizaines de fournisseurs différents. 

Uriage et le Tetrapeptide-4

Le laboratoire a reçu le prix du « meilleur produit pharma 2025 » pour sa formule Age absolu – Sérum micro-redensifiant booster collagène qui concentre plusieurs stars de la dermo-cosmétique anti-âge :

  • le Tetrapeptide-4 : peptide simple et non greffé aux propriétés anti-âge
  • le retinyl palmitate (dérivé ultra stable et bien toléré du rétinol) 
  • l’acide hyaluronique 
  • les vitamine C & E
  • l’eau thermale d’Uriage 

👩🏻‍⚕️On retrouve le Tetrapeptide-4 chez de nombreux fournisseurs (souvent en association) notamment Evonik (TEGO Pep UP) 

Sources

Skibska A, Perlikowska R. Signal Peptides – Promising Ingredients in Cosmetics. Curr Protein Pept Sci. 2021;22(10):716-728. doi: 10.2174/1389203722666210812121129. PMID: 34382523.

He B, Wang F, Qu L. Role of peptide-cell surface interactions in cosmetic peptide application. Front Pharmacol. 2023 Nov 13;14:1267765. doi: 10.3389/fphar.2023.1267765. PMID: 38027006; PMCID: PMC10679740.

Wang L, Wu Z, Wang X, Wang X, Mao J, Yan Y, Zhang L, Zhang Z. Overview of Peptides and Their Potential Roles in Skin Health and Beauty. J Pept Sci. 2025 Feb;31(2):e3668. doi: 10.1002/psc.3668. PMID: 39777813.

Laroche Posay

Uriage 

SVR

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