Products & Trends
The secrets behind America's 5 favorite products: why French Pharmacy is a sensation
What are the secrets behind America's favourite products?
Formulation, legendary history, discover what's behind these icons.
In its January issue, Elle US unveiled its ranking of the top 10 must-have products to discover in French pharmaciesThese are treasures that every American visiting France must try. I invite you to dive into the top 5 of this selection, where every product deserves a closer look.
The best anti-aging product from the French Pharmacy: A313 ointment
ACTIF STAR : Retinol 200,000 IU per 100g
WHERE DOES ITS HYPE COME FROM? This affordable over-the-counter drug, available in all French pharmacies, has become a veritable phenomenon. French Pharmacy. It's prized for its ability to smooth wrinkles, restore skin's natural radiance, and even fade acne scars. Originally designed to treat irritant dermatitis, it has conquered the hearts of anti-aging skincare enthusiasts, becoming a must-have for fighting skin aging and achieving an irresistible glow. Its success has increased tenfold since the discontinuation, in 2015, of AVIBON ointment, the benchmark in prescribed retinol, which was five times more concentrated.
MY OPINION ON THE A313 :
This product, initially intended for the treatment of irritant dermatitis, contains a relatively low dosage of 0.06% of retinol, well below the cosmetic limit of 0.3% for a non-rinse-off product. This product has created a real buzz on social networks, notably on TikTok, where it transformed the skin of its users, most of whom became totally won over ambassadors! Given the enthusiasm it generates and its long presence on the market, it's hard not to believe in its effectiveness. That said, when used over the long term for anti-ageing purposes, it's worth noting that the instructions for use mention a risk. hypervitaminosis A, although this phenomenon is rare in topical applications. This type of side effect is generally associated with the use of dietary supplements.
The French Pharmacy's best skincare product: Embryolisse multi-functional concentrated cream milk
ACTIF STAR : Shea butter, Aloe vera...
Ingredients found in a multitude of French Pharmacy skincare products. In fact, the effectiveness of this formula lies not only in these star ingredients. What really makes the difference is the chemical reaction that takes place between stearic acid and triethanolamine during the product's manufacture. A subtle alchemy that gives rise to ultra-nourishing creams.
WHERE DOES ITS HYPE COME FROM? This cream is adored by make-up artists the world over for its 6 functions Moisturizing cream, make-up base, cleansing milk, moisturizing mask, after-shave care and after-sun care. It's a multi-purpose formula that anyone can use for anything.
MY OPINION ON EMBRYOLISSE CONDENSED CREAM MILK
Although I haven't tested it yet, I'm fascinated by this cream. It's based on a century-old formulation technique based on phase inversion, a process that creates liquid crystal bilayers imitating the skin's natural structure. The result: a highly effective skin care product. Invented in 1892 by Burroughs & Wellcome, this method gave birth to the "stearate creams, a veritable revolution in the history of cosmetics. It led to the creation of the first creams that were both moisturizing and sensorial, such as the famous Hazeline Snowa revolutionary make-up base at the time, and the Vanishing Creama light, mattifying cream that caused a sensation. These products didn't just moisturize superficially, they restructured the skin in depth, capturing and organizing water in a more stable way, reinforcing the elasticity and resistance of the epidermis.
Unlike other creams that only provide temporary hydration, Crème au Stéarate improves moisture retention over the long term, giving skin greater resistance and suppleness. A timeless formula, then, as effective as ever today. And a little extra : Embryolisseis a family-owned brand. I had the opportunity to meet its managers, passionate and inspiring entrepreneurs.
Biafine: a staple in French pharmacies
ACTIF STAR : Trolamine or Triethanolamine
(I personally consider this ingredient to be a pH adjuster, not an active ingredient ...🤣)
WHERE DOES ITS HYPE COME FROM? Renowned for its effectiveness, this versatile skin care product is used for almost everything: from sunburn to body care for "crocodile skin". However, its therapeutic indications are more specific: secondary erythema due to radiotherapy treatments, second-degree burns and first-degree burns.
MY OPINION ON BIAFINE
I love Biafine, it's a bit of a Proust's madeleine for me, a memory of childhood and (too) sunny vacations! Its formula is based on a "chassis" similar to that of Embryolisse's concentrated cream milk, with ingredients like stearic acid and triethanolamine forming those lipid bilayers during emulsification. However, even if description of the MA attributes an active role to it, I think that triethanolamine (TEA) can't really be considered an active ingredient in the strict sense of the word (it's a bit like considering soda ash an active ingredient!). It's a pH adjuster, and a strong base used to saponify stearic acid. Biafine's effectiveness probably comes from the other ingredients in the formula, such as avocado oil and kerosene, which contribute their moisturizing and repairing benefits. And of course, the formulation itself, 👋 1892 stearate cream, which once again makes the difference.
French Pharmacy's most iconic oil: Huile prodigieuse by Nuxe
ACTIF STAR : Argan oil, vitamin E, hazelnut oil.
WHERE DOES ITS HYPE COME FROM? This multifunctional oil moisturizes, nourishes and beautifies skin and hair. It is particularly appreciated for its unique fragrance and its use in both summer and winter.
MY OPINION ON HUILE PRODIGIEUSE BY NUXE
Nuxe made a real impact with the launch of its Huile Prodigieuse in French pharmacies in 1991. This multifunctional skincare product revolutionized the cosmetics market by creating a new use for it. Its effectiveness, combined with its inimitable fragrance, has made it an essential reference over the years, and it remains the favorite oil of consumers the world over. I was lucky enough to meet Aliza Jabèsthe founder of Nuxe, and welcome her to my first laboratory. Inspiring and straightforward, an hour's conversation with Aliza gained me five years' professional experience!
Caudalie beauty water, an icon beyond French pharmacies
ACTIF STAR : Green grape, Rose essential oil, Rosemary essential oil
WHERE DOES ITS HYPE COME FROM? Applied after make-up, this beauty mist gives skin an immediate, long-lasting radiance. Inspired by the "Eau de Jeunesse" prepared for the Queen of Hungary in the 16th century, it evokes an ancestral beauty ritual. In a simple pshittfor a more luminous complexion. A quick but effective gesture that adds a touch of radiance. glow for the whole day, which contributed to the brand's success in French pharmacies and then around the world.
MY OPINION ON CAUDALIE BEAUTY WATER :
I love the story behind this product and its composition. It's an original gesture that has created a real difference in the skincare market. This mist is light and pleasant, and its effectiveness in maintaining a radiant complexion is a real asset.
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