Dermo-cosmetics is the most dynamic and demanding segment of the market.
Discover how a best-selling dermo-cosmetic product is developed, from formulation to specific testing.
In the field of cosmetics, dermo-cosmetics are characterized by the use of "active" ingredients with scientifically proven efficacy, recommended by dermatologists. Often sold in pharmacies, their efficacy and excellent tolerance are at the root of their success. The development of a dermo-cosmetic product requires several areas of expertise.
What is a dermo-cosmetic product?
The term "dermo-cosmetics" was coined in the 1960s by the Pierre Fabre laboratory, to mark the difference between its products and those of traditional cosmetics. In introducing this concept, Pierre Fabre wished to emphasize the scientific rigor and safety of its formulations, incorporating ingredients capable of treating skin ailments while improving the skin's appearance. In this way, dermo-cosmetics represents an interface between the worlds of dermatology and cosmetics, combining skin care with proven efficacy.
This guide is intended for anyone wishing to develop an innovative product in this demanding field, whether they are entrepreneurs, laboratories or newcomers to the world of cosmetics.
Read more1. Understanding the basics of dermo-cosmetic product development
Developing a dermo-cosmetic product is more than just creating an attractive formula and packaging. It's a complex process that requires expertise in several key areas, including :
Formulation and product innovation :
Creating an effective, innovative formula requires in-depth knowledge of cosmetic active ingredients, formulation stability and consumer preferences.
Safety tests :
Eye and skin irritation tests, as well as allergen assays, are essential to guarantee product safety on human skin.
Efficacy studies :
Whether in vitro tests to assess the efficacy of active ingredients or clinical studies to measure results on users' skin, these studies are crucial to establishing the product's credibility.
2. The essential steps for launching your dermo-cosmetic product
1. Analysis of product brief and definition of objectives :
The first stage of any product development begins with a clear understanding of the need. This involves identifying consumer expectations, the product target, and the benefits sought (moisturizing, anti-aging, soothing, etc.).
2. Formula research and development :
At this stage, formulation experts will select the active ingredients, define dosages and ensure product stability over time. Formulations must also comply with current regulations (European standards, safety tests, etc.).
3. Safety and tolerance tests :
Skin and eye irritation tests are essential to guarantee product safety, while complying with regulatory requirements. We ensure that the product does not cause adverse reactions on the skin.
4. In vitro and clinical efficacy studies :
In vitro tests, carried out in the laboratory, enable us to test the efficacy of active ingredients without recourse to human trials. Clinical studies on volunteers are then carried out to prove efficacy on the skin.
5. Manufacturer selection :
This is where a good network of experts and manufacturers can make all the difference. One of the biggest challenges lies in selecting a laboratory that meets quality standards, costs and deadlines.
3. How to overcome common cosmetics development challenges
In the field of dermo-cosmetics, several technical challenges can complicate the process. These include
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Industrial constraints sometimes limit creativity :
Manufacturers may have production constraints that limit flexibility and customization. A specialized partner, such as an independent laboratory, can offer greater freedom to produce customized products, according to the customer's exact brief.
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Costly and complex clinical tests :
These tests are often perceived as a costly and intimidating step for young brands. However, with the support of an expert, you can choose the right studies, optimize costs and get to the heart of the matter for proven results that make a real difference to your customers and retailers.